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Due to popular request, I've put together this video showing how to use & clean the Makin's Ultimate Clay Extruder. The video also shows how to use the extruder to make coiled polymer clay beads, then sand the beads to reveal the colors hidden inside. The video runs about 9 1/2 minutes.

Here are a couple of shots from the video — click the description to see a larger view:

Prefer written instructions over video? See the updated version of How to Use and Clean the Makin's Ultimate Clay Extruder.

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Buy the Makin's Ultimate Clay Extruder now.

Comments

Great video, Angela! And really really cool beads. I've never used the extruder much, so I didn't realize the bottom color wrapped around like that. Nifty!

great tutorial - thank you!

Thanks, Naama & Christie! And I agree that the whole wrapping-around-color thing is very cool... I think that's what appeals to me about making retro canes even though I'm generally not much of a caner. I love the element of surprise!

I love this tutorial...thanks so much for posting and keep up the great work!

Great video Angela! I have made both the retro canes and the coiled beads but I have never put the two together like that. That is really cool!

Hi Angela,
Thank you so much for this tutorial. My extruder arrived today and those are the beads I really wanted to try to make. You're awesome!

Never would have ordered a extruder without this video. thanks.

Can you use polymer clay directly on a self healing mat without the paper? Will it stick to the self healing mat or damage the mat?

Thanks for the question, TW. It may depend on the specific self-healing mat. When I left polymer clay in contact with my mat, it stuck to it and removed some of the ruler/grid marking layer. If you prefer not to use wax paper, another good option is a large sheet of glass covering the mat. It's fairly easy to clean, and you can still see the grid.

I didn't think of using the masking tape for sharp edges when using glass sheets to work on...Thanks for the tip.
 
I tried acrylic sheets to work on. The only complaint I have so far when it comes to using acrylic sheets is that it only comes in small 'square' sizes at the local hardware store like HomeDepot. I wanted a large square piece. A better variety in rectangular sizes are available. I paid $3.29 for an 11in.x14in.x.093in. clear sheet. I should have gotten the 18in.x24in. for $9.40 or 20in.x32in. $11.80 for more working space but I was being cheap and I wanted to make sure the clay didn't stick too much before spending more money.

I found that you can find acrylic sheets in a variety of prices and sizes from less than $2 for a 4in.x6in. sheet to $300 for a 48in.x96in. sheet. The thickness usually comes in .093in. and .220in. The .220in. thickness is more expensive but the .093in. is realy strong and relatively thick. I was pleasantly surprised that it is really light and shatter proof. Supposedly you can even smooth scratches in acrylic if they develop and cause problems with your clay projects.

However, you can scrap or cause digs in the acrylic if your not really careful with really sharp tools.  I think glass is a better working surface over all. The glass squares with the beveled edges you can find at Michaels are good to use but they can be a little heavy if you want to travel with them. If I'm just at home I use the glass but if I need to take them with me I pack the acrylic because it lighter and shatter proof. The clay so far doesn't seem to stick any more than anything else you might work on.

This is great info comparing glass & acrylic sheets. Thanks for sharing it, TW!

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CraftyGoat's Notes is all about sharing polymer clay tips & tricks that have worked for me. (And even a few that haven't!)

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