Creating a Rust Effect on Polymer Clay
Shiny metallic and glasslike finishes all have their place. But sometimes you want an older, more weathered look. I recently experimented with using the Rust Antiquing Set by Sophisticated Finishes on polymer clay, and I wanted to share my experiences.
About the Rust Antiquing Set
The Rust Antiquing Set doesn't just create the illusion of a rusted finish — it actually creates a metallic, rusted top layer on whatever surface you paint it on. The set comes with two bottles. The Iron Metallic Surfacer paint includes real metallic bits. You paint this on first to create a rust-able surface. Then you use the Rust Antiquing Solution to rust those metallic bits.
How To Use It
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Paint the Iron Metallic Surfacer. Be sure to shake this bottle well before you start. You need all those metal bits to be mixed into the paint. I also found it helpful to run my paintbrush against the inside wall of the bottle, where the gritty stuff seemed to be more plentiful. Remember, as you paint, that you don't want it smooth. You want a sandy, gritty texture. (This was a little hard for me to get used to!) - Wait. The package instruction say, "Allow the [iron metallic surfacer] coat to fully dry overnight before applying the Antiquing Solution." To me, that meant at least overnight. And so I let it sit there til whenever I got around to the next step. Their website clarifies, though, that it's best to do the next step 8-10 hours afterwards. Waiting more or less time can cause the finish not to rust.
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Paint the Rust Antiquing Solution. The rust antiquing solution is a clear, glaze-like liquid. Use a light touch so you don't drown the surface (the instructions say "several light coats will product better results than one heavy coat" and I found this to be true). - Wait. Paint. Repeat. Be prepared to do several coats of the rust antiquing solution. Since they want you to apply coats 24 hours apart, this can be a little time consuming. In fact, by the time I got to my third coat, my hubby asked whether I might have had faster results by just allowing the stuff to rust naturally!
Potential Problems
The first time I used the rust antiquing set, I used it on metal, and it worked perfectly. I was really excited! But metal's metal. It doesn't need all that much convincing to rust. After I tried it on polymer clay, I realized there are quite a few variables that go into getting "good" results. Not only that, but this is a product (not unlike alcohol inks) where you'll be happier if you're able to let go of the results. You're probably not going to get two items to rust exactly the same. Still, here are some tips to improve your chances of getting a nice rusted finish:- Experiment. Temperature, humidity, and amount of paint are just a few of the variables that affect how it turns out. Experiment with these to see how you get the best results. And check the Sophisticated Finishes FAQ section for more variables and suggestions on avoiding common problems.
- No rust? Start again. If it doesn't rust at all the first time around, you can start the process over again. Just paint another round of both the iron surfacer and the antiquing solution right on top of your failed coat.
My Results with Polymer Clay
I wondered if certain brands of clay would rust better than others, so I made two tiles each from five brands of clay (Premo, UL Sculpey, Fimo Soft, Kato, & Studio by Sculpey). I coated one tile of each brand with just one coat of the iron surfacer, and the other tile with two coats. I expected UL Sculpey to behave the best, since it's specifically designed to be paintable. But really, all of the clays behaved just about the same.
I personally had slightly better luck on the tiles where I just used one coat. For one thing, the one-coat version seemed to rust prettier — but that likely had more to do with the variables mentioned above (primarily temperature and humidity) than with the number of coats. But I also wanted to leave rusted bits in the stamped grooves, then sand off the upper layer. (You can compare the sanded one-coat and two-coat versions here.) When I added the second coat, it completely covered too much of the stamped image, preventing the impressed areas from reacting with the rust solution. Of course, this all depends on your project — if you're not using stamped images or if you want more complete coverage, more coats may be better.
Overall Impressions
I have mixed feelings about the rust set. It's definitely a trial and error product: you need to understand some of the variables and figure out how to make it work for you. And even then, you won't be happy with it if you're expecting complete control over the outcome. It's a lot like the normal rusting process in that way — you don't have a lot of say in where something rusts, what color that rust is, etc. Finally, it's kind of a slow process. It may take several days to get the results you want.Still, the fact that the rust set works on so many surfaces ("wood, plaster, glass, ceramic, canvas, cardboard, plastic, and metal," according to the packaging) makes it a handy tool, especially for mixed media artists. And it can be kind of fun figuring out how to get good results, and allowing for happy accidents when the results aren't necessarily what you expected. For those reasons, it gets a "thumbs up" in my book. In fact, I've added their similar Patina Green Antiquing Set to my Christmas list (that's a hint, in case any family members are reading this!)
Have you tried any Sophisticated Finishes antiquing products? If so, what do you think? I'd love to hear about your experiences, or any tricks you've figured out for getting good results...
Comments
I haven't tried it, but after reading this, it's on my list to try :) I really like how the blue, especially, looked after the sanding and I happen to have some blue that I needed for just one project and probably won't use for a long time. You write great reviews!
Posted by: Sue Choppers-Wife | December 4, 2008 10:05 PM
Thanks, Sue! Sounds like a good use for some extra supplies... I'd love to see what you come up with!
Posted by: Angela Mabray | December 8, 2008 1:02 AM
I don't get the whole attraction to rust thing. The people for whom antiques were new (not yet antique) did not want their things to look old and rusty and beat up, did they? So why do we want them to look like that? I think that people who like the rust look didn't grow up when every car on the road had rust on it---some cars were more rust than car. When I see rust I want to get some CLR and scrub it off.
Posted by: Marilyn McCord | December 27, 2008 8:53 AM
Rust is akin to a patina...no, you don't want it on something new, but patina is an indication of the story behind a piece and its age.
But more important to an artist is the beautiful random pattern that rust or patina can create. We don't have time to sit around and let an art piece sit in the weather for a few years to get that effect and in doing our own we get to have some control over the outcome.
Art is not the same as a 59 Chevy with no floorboards. :)
Posted by: Sue Choppers-Wife | December 27, 2008 9:05 AM
Sue wrote, "Art is not the same as a 59 Chevy with no floorboards. :)"
LOL! Funny. Very good point! You are right, of course.
Posted by: Marilyn McCord | December 27, 2008 9:34 AM
LOL! You both have good points!
I was originally drawn to the rust look when reading through some collage & assembly books (Altered Curiosities: Assemblage Techniques and Projects was one of my faves). Things like the handmade shrines that focus on old photos and memorabilia often look a little more authentic if they're "aged." Even the smooshed, rusted bottlecaps I see on the street while I'm out for a jog appeal to me more than the shiny ones... at least for certain projects. It all depends on the project & the feel you're going for, and I think this product is a nice option when you want an authentically older feel.
Posted by: Angela Mabray | January 1, 2009 3:22 PM
I HAVE USED THE RUST TECHNIQUE ON QUITE A FEW THINGS. I LOVE THE FINISH IT GIVES TO MY PROJECTS, BUT THE PROBLEM I'M HAVING IS IT GETS COMPLETELY DRIED OUT. I HAVE TRIED STORING IT IN A PLASTIC BAG WITH NO AVAIL. I USUALLY THIN IT OUT BY ADDING A LITTLE WATER TO THE BOTTLE AND STIRRING REAL WELL, BUT THAT SEAMS TO MAKE IT NOT STICK TO MY PROJECT. I WONDER IF ADDING A LITTLE CLEAR ACRYLIC TO IT WOULD HELP WITHOUT TURNING IT TOO DARK? IF ANYONE HAS ANY IDEAS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
Posted by: JANICE DOUGLAS | January 24, 2009 7:42 PM
Thanks for the comment, Janice. I haven't had mine long enough to have it dry out, so I'm not sure how the acrylic might affect the rusting process. Perhaps someone else has had experience with this and will comment...?
Posted by: Angela Mabray | January 24, 2009 9:24 PM
Oh I love Sophisticated Finishes! I have not used that exact set, though.
It's one of those things that I consciously worry about my craft store dropping someday - I love the stuff. Good review - I had not been sure how it would work on clay.
Posted by: Rachel | September 2, 2010 2:40 PM
I now have two bottles of the Sophisticated Finishes Iron Metallic Surfacer that dried out before they were half used up. Has anyone tried anything other than water to extend these finishes? I wrote the company but haven't heard back.
I LOVE the effect. It's very useful in getting the right feel in my assemblage pieces. All the advice here on applying it, reapplying, and waiting the right time to dry are important. Multiple coats of the metallic are important to get a good base, especially if you're working on non-metal items. Timing and the amount of material applied give different results. Any suggestions?
Posted by: Amy | September 18, 2010 12:30 PM
Sorry I'm just responding, Amy. I had hoped another reader might be able to answer what is apparently a common question. My bottle of iron metallic surfacer isn't quite dried out (after 2 years of sitting unopened in a dark closet), but it's very thick. Unfortunately I don't know the answer to keeping it from drying out or re-hydrating it once it's dry. Did you ever hear back from the company?
Posted by: Angela Mabray | November 10, 2010 9:32 PM
I just read this and is what I am looking for. In just curious at to what the end texture is like. Does it come off on your fingers like regular rust and is it able to be clear coated to fix it and finish the piece by the way I will be using super sculpey. Thankyou
Posted by: evan | August 29, 2012 5:14 PM
I honestly haven't experimented much more with this, but since it is rust, I would expect it to come off on your fingers. I would recommend looking into Swellegant Metal Coatings, which Christi Friesen & others have been using with polymer clay. That line has a clear sealant that's probably exactly what you're wanting. Here's a link: http://store.cforiginals.net/swmecoco.html
Good luck!
Posted by: Angela Mabray | August 30, 2012 11:32 PM